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1st February 2008, 12:11 | #1 |
Up Unt At Dem!
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AA Vehicle inspections worth it?
On a $2000-2500 car? I'm going to check out a few cars tommorow, budget is not big, being in the above range. So I'm basically looking at 90-95 year, 150k+ mileage. Does anyone here with car experience think its worth getting a vehicle inspection for this type of car? They are $100 so I'm leaning against it... If it was a 10k car I'd do it, no question, but at this price range...?
Also the things I'm going to look for are - Leaking - Rust - Tire tread - Weird sounds from the engine while I'm driving it Can anyone think of any others? cheers guys |
1st February 2008, 12:25 | #2 |
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I would take it to a trusted mechanic for an inspection maybe, but don't trust VTNZ and AA inspections anymore.
My first car: VTNZ said it was fine. 3 month slater when I take it to a mechanic the front and rear suspension are shot and it needs $2000 worth of repairs. My second car: AA and VTNZ said it was all good. 4 months later I take it to a (different) mechanic and it has many problems which should have been picked up by the AA. $3000 worth of repairs. Le sigh. |
1st February 2008, 12:28 | #3 |
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Maybe do an VIR check first? https://www.vir.co.nz/
I will personally do both next time I buy a car since it's a good precaution and I'm a shit mechanic. There is also a text service you can try where you enter the registration number and send it, then you instantly get a quick history check. Forgot what the number is, but have a look at Lemon & Dog Guide which is where I saw the info. |
1st February 2008, 13:03 | #4 |
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I've seen AA inspection reports for rotarys stating the 'timing belt needs replacing' and 'noisy head, will need attention'.
So in short, AA reports are not worth it for any car. I've always been of the opinion its best to organize to have a good mechanic have a once over on the car before buying. Even better if you can get a specialist for that model (if appropriate, any competant garage can check a corolla but you would want a subaru specialst to look at a car like a WRX)
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1st February 2008, 13:06 | #5 | |
Freeloader
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They passed it, even though the rack housing was cracked. My mechanic reckoned you would need to be blind to not spot it. Total cost to fix: $3000. |
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1st February 2008, 13:18 | #6 |
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Sounds like a job for TARGET!
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Stay shook. No sook. |
1st February 2008, 13:19 | #7 |
Up Unt At Dem!
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Ok thanks for the advice. I'm thinking of skipping the AA inspection now. Would like my mechanic to do it but the car is in New Lynn and my mechanic is out east...so a bit of a mission to get there :/ again if it was a 10k car, no question but for 2k but my desire is to just go with my gut (and the things I mentioned of course)
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1st February 2008, 13:34 | #8 |
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When looking at the engine, squeeze all the hoses for "crunchy" engine rust. No crunch is good.
And beware buying something that's had modifications. I recently inspected a honda civic 96 which was obviously a thrashed racer, it was so gutless. Also Toyota, Nissan, Honda. Top three to aim for when buying a oldish car. Last edited by Nahaz : 1st February 2008 at 13:39. |
1st February 2008, 14:34 | #9 | |
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(sorry for the thread hijack) Last edited by The Edge : 1st February 2008 at 14:38. |
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1st February 2008, 15:56 | #10 | |
Up Unt At Dem!
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1st February 2008, 18:25 | #11 |
Stuff
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find a mate that has driven that model car before to test drive it and comment on any differences. they'll quickly pick up on things like strange mechanical sounds or handling differences.
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My degree of sarcasm depends on your degree of stupidity. |
1st February 2008, 19:49 | #12 |
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I'm quite lucky as one of my best mates is a mechanic and he's always happy to come along and check out cars for me.
The last car I brought was going through it's warrant when I went to check it out, good timing there. Check around the doors and windows for rust or bubbles in the paint check tyres for uneven wear, also I think it's a good idea to check that they are all the same brand check carpets for dampness check all engine fluids especially making sure there is no water in the oil listen out for any odd sounds when taking it for a test drive press every button in the car and make sure they all work also funny smells when test driving could mean something is wrong if the car looks quite worn out but has low km's on the clock may mean it's been wound back (not always true though) when going for a test drive, take it through a town and onto the motorway, also try to take it up-hill if there is one nearby |
1st February 2008, 20:10 | #13 | |
Stuff
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My degree of sarcasm depends on your degree of stupidity. |
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1st February 2008, 23:26 | #14 |
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Re The Edges comments on dodgy dealers. Go to www.companies.govt.nz, check on Online Vehicle Auctions Limited and have a look at the Directors previous companies. Shareholding splits are interesting too
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Carpe Diem |
2nd February 2008, 23:07 | #15 |
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The previous owner did AA check on my car before I paid for it, noted a few issues with wheel alignment and a few other minor things.
Getting an AA check on a car allowed me to get mechanical warranty on the purchased vehicle, considering it's 2nd-hand private purchase, that means if the engine dies driving along the motorway, the insurance covers repairs. So, there are some benefits for an AA check, and relying on any one opinion/check is always going to result in the occasional bad egg. But would people prefer taking the risk of not checking at all? |
3rd February 2008, 11:56 | #16 |
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i found the aa check to be alot more helpfull than what i originally thought.
the guy picked up on things like worn brake pads, slight brake pedal pulsation (i still can't feel it to this day) even got as far as noticing the bushes in the diff mounting were cracked. so yeah well worth it i reckon. |
3rd February 2008, 12:10 | #17 |
User Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Our experience with the AA has been alright but yeah definitely get a real mechanic that you know is good.
We got an AA check for a Toyota Levin once, was really good and showed that the car had previously been in a major crash (chassis was bent and the dude showed us marks of where the machine was used to straighten it). |
10th February 2008, 11:20 | #18 |
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Vehicle Inspection Services were the one that the dealer I used to buy my Caldy had an arrangement with - their guy actually picked up a few points that were good perspective-adders.
OTOH the AA guy I used when I bought my 4WS Celica years ago couldn't identify the fact that the 4WS was faulty Despite the dash light. (I wound up eventually tracing an intermittant fault with it that turned out to be a speed sensor issue, and was able to fix it myself without tooooo much expense.) I'd definately get it inspected, if you're really not sure, run one inspector up against the other? However some good advice in this thread, be as objective as you can and watch for anything that seems out of the ordinary... no matter how benign, they could be signs of something worse. I'm gonna be in the market for a ~1K vehicle later this year, will be interesting to see what I can get for that sorta $$. Not sure if that price bracket makes an inspection worthwhile... |
10th February 2008, 11:23 | #19 | |
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10th February 2008, 11:24 | #20 | |
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10th February 2008, 11:31 | #21 |
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I've got a AE100 XL atm, I love it! Paid $1000 for it It flew through the last 2 warrants(well, needed 2 front tyres on the first, but nothing on the second!). It's crazy economical.
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13th February 2008, 14:35 | #22 |
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Good test of any engine, once its all warmed up at about 60km/h if its manual, put it in 5th and floor it for a few seconds see if it shudders ect.
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13th February 2008, 14:45 | #23 |
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haha, that's pretty true
I always drive in 5th gear in a 50K Zone.. my car loves it So does my wallet |
13th February 2008, 14:57 | #24 |
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Yeah, also - engine braking - if you can get someone to follow you/drive past someone standing on the side of the road - see if she blows any smoke - sign the piston rings are going...
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16th May 2008, 09:53 | #25 |
I have detailed files
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Ok car chaps...
Can I get vehicle insurance for one day while I get a check done? The chap I am looking to buy the car off is selling it on behalf of his dad, and as he is under 25 he can't get insurance for it. I want to get a mechanic to do a thorough check on it due to it having an engine with no (at present) verifiable history chucked into it in December. To do this, I need to get the car 30kms across town to my garage, and then back again. My idea is to get the chap selling it to ride shotgun, and have me buy some temp insruance to keep everybody happy. Who sells this? AMI didn't want to do it - the closest they suggested was that I take out and pay for a year's worth and then cancel it after one day. I wasn't too keen on that! Another idea was to get hold of a car trailer and transport it that way - I'm picking that my insurance would cover the load? It's starting to seem that this thing is a lot more trouble than it is worth. It was originally for sale in Blenheim, and I spent several weeks trying to organise getting an AA check done up there, but another chap selling it kept claiming that it was being repaired and couldn't be realised for a test - this could well have been true, but it seems strange that even when it's down here, it can't be tested because it can't be driven anywhere. |
16th May 2008, 10:12 | #26 |
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I would have thought it was in the sellers interest to accomodate a pre purchase inspection, regardless of who actually does it.
I usually arrange a check and get the owner to take to car to the mechanic and then liase with the mechanic for the report. If you ring your insurance people and tell them you are buying a car subject to an inspection, they would cover it for the day or so untill the documentation turns up at your home. This is usual for this kind of thing, but I dont believe the responsibility is with you to cover it to be driven to the test. Get the seller to take it to the mechanic you choose. |
16th May 2008, 10:33 | #27 |
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This is a slightly off topic but I came across this interesting website. It could be handy for some people.
http://www.carfax.co.nz/ |
16th May 2008, 11:12 | #28 | |
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you dont have to pay for insurance on the spot... so if you take out an agreement and then cancel it soon after, your bill should have the annual fee minus the refund, and you should really only be charged for the difference.
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16th May 2008, 11:51 | #29 |
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If you have an existing insurance policy on another vehicle, getting a seperate vehicle added should not be expensive.
I had to do this when I borrowed a friends car some years ago, wasn't too expensive. |
16th May 2008, 11:58 | #30 |
I have detailed files
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^^^ I have 3 vehicles with AMI already, and a 60% NCB - but the customer service lady could not think of a way to do it.
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16th May 2008, 12:15 | #31 | |
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Fuck that is awesome. Scary too... looking at my car it hurts how much kms its done... I wish it was as awesome as when I first bought it |
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16th May 2008, 12:35 | #32 |
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Man, it's nuts looking at mine. The previous owners were doing ~100km/day. I do around 25km/day.
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Stay shook. No sook. |
16th May 2008, 13:00 | #33 |
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hey Lightspeed, LTNS.
Sad looking up my old car rego's and seeing that at least two of them are writeoffs now... Re the Insurance thing tho, funny, coz I was with AMI when I had mine set up... was a few years ago mind you... |
17th May 2008, 10:45 | #34 | |
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"odometer decrease -996.00" ! |
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17th May 2008, 11:01 | #35 |
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I can only assume that means someone typo'd when entering your mileage into the computer at WOF time...
One of my old cars (now owned by someone else known to NZGames) has had a drop of 50,000km in its recent past... |
17th May 2008, 11:08 | #36 |
Fuck up Ashley
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edge what car?
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17th May 2008, 14:09 | #37 | |
Snoogans
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Useless WOF people - I've had them screw up the date on the window sticker before as well. |
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